From design to drape

The rough sketch then takes shape and goes through a series of steps, in which experts lend their touch to perfect the design. Utmost care is given to avoid errors.

The motif is graphed on a checkered sheet. Half the design is drawn on it. The various threads used in the pattern (zari, silk) are demarcated with different colours. Plotting the design on a graph paper gives the weaver a very clear idea of the threads involved in the weaving process. The graph paper usually has large boxes that facilitate easy understanding of the design.

The motifs and patterns are then transferred onto cardboard cards. Using the graph as a reference, holes are punched along the outline of the design on the cards. These cards guide the weaver through the process of breathing life into the design. They help the weaver understand which colour thread has to pass through which card and when. Even for a small design, hundreds of punched cards are needed! 

These perforated cards are then placed in the loom, which already has the warp and weft in place. Once the weaving starts, the designs appear accordingly. The right coloured threads go in and come out of the punched holes, according to the pattern. Once the saree is finished, one can see the entire design.

 It starts with the winding of yarn on a warp beam. The silk yarn is turned into warp sheets by rolling the yarn with an iron rod. The warp sheet is then transferred onto a beam. The yarn strands pass through reeds and healds. Each strand is joined with the old warp thread manually. The joining process is followed by weaving on a raised fly shuttle pit loom, wherein the silk threads of the weft and warp are interlocked. The woven cloth is wound around the wooden beam. After weaving six metres of the weft, the unwoven warp is knotted to form the fringes. The unwoven stands are cut out. Then the saree is folded in a traditional manner before being sent to the stores. It takes about 4-5 days to weave a saree; some sarees take longer.